Stone Island’s Logo Worn by Extremists Sparks Brand Dilemma

The recent presence of the Stone Island logo among right-wing protestors in London has raised significant questions about brand association and consumer identity. During a rally on September 16, 2023, which attracted over 110,000 demonstrators protesting against immigration, the Italian fashion brand’s emblem was prominently displayed. Among those wearing the logo was Tommy Robinson, a controversial figure known for his far-right views and as a co-founder of the English Defence League.

The emblem, featuring a nautical star and compass on a distinctive badge, has become synonymous with the brand. Robinson, who has been previously charged with multiple offenses, including harassment, has been photographed wearing Stone Island apparel at various events. His connection to the brand is notable, given the cultural roots of Stone Island in British football culture, which is often associated with exclusivity and social status.

The logo’s visibility among such groups poses a dilemma for brands like Stone Island, which have limited control over who wears their clothing. While Robinson and his supporters do not explicitly use the logo to promote extremist ideologies, the brand’s association with these movements has not gone unnoticed. Joe Mulhall, director of research at the advocacy group Hope not Hate, commented on Robinson’s consistent choice of Stone Island at public events, linking it to his background in football culture.

Brands and Their Image Challenges

Concerns over brand associations are not unique to Stone Island. The Italian luxury brand Loro Piana faced backlash after Vladimir Putin wore one of its parkas during a televised rally celebrating Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in 2022. The public criticized Loro Piana for failing to condemn the association, leading to questions about the responsibilities of luxury brands in relation to political figures.

Similarly, the British sportswear label Fred Perry had to distance itself from the far-right Proud Boys organization in the United States. After the group adopted one of its polo shirts as a uniform, Fred Perry temporarily withdrew the item from sale. The company reiterated its stance against hate groups, emphasizing that the Proud Boys’ values were “counter to our beliefs.”

In another instance, the American company New Balance faced unwanted attention when a neo-Nazi website dubbed its sneakers the “official shoes of white people.” The brand quickly responded by denouncing bigotry and hate, aiming to reclaim its image.

The Evolution of Fashion as a Political Symbol

Dr. Cynthia Miller-Idriss, a sociologist at The American University, notes that the use of fashion as a political statement dates back to the early 1990s in Germany. As neo-Nazi groups sought to evade laws banning overt symbolism, they turned to coded clothing, adopting brands like New Balance and Lonsdale as discreet markers of identity. This trend has evolved, with contemporary extremist groups favoring more subdued clothing styles, reflecting a shift in aesthetic strategy.

Stone Island’s roots in football culture have historically intertwined with notions of tribal identity and social status. In the 1990s, young men attending soccer matches often wore designer sportswear to distinguish themselves while avoiding confrontations with rival fans. This connection to football culture may explain why some extremists are drawn to the brand, as it evokes a sense of pride and belonging.

Despite the challenges posed by these associations, Stone Island continues to maintain a positive brand image among its diverse fanbase. The company reported revenues of €401.6 million (approximately $471 million) for 2024, a slight decrease of 1% from the previous year, but still reflecting strong consumer interest. The brand’s marketing strategies, including a campaign featuring Liam Gallagher in September 2024, have kept it relevant and popular among various cultural groups.

As brands navigate these complex associations, some experts suggest active measures to reclaim their narratives. For instance, Lonsdale countered its negative reputation by sponsoring anti-racist events and initiatives, effectively reshaping public perception. Similarly, brands like Stone Island may consider philanthropic efforts that align with their values to counteract any unwanted associations.

Ultimately, the challenge remains for brands to engage with their core audiences while addressing the potential implications of their logos appearing in contentious contexts. The evolution of fashion and identity continues to intersect with political movements, leaving brands to carefully consider their image in an increasingly complex landscape.